How I spent under £200 in one weekend in one of Europe’s most affordable cities


Turned out I was staying at art school, something like £30 a night Pokoje Gościnne (“Chambres d’hotes”) was not very clear when I booked. Luckily the rooms didn’t feel like an offshoot of Central St Martins, but more like a friend’s cozy spare digs – perfectly serviceable, with a great central location.

To take advantage of this location, I spent my first day walking through ancient archways and wandering the waterfront, which is lined with many of these copper-roofed five-story buildings. The city was destroyed in World War II (Danzig, as the Germans called it, being the first real battle site), so its Dutch Renaissance architecture is actually a modern replica. The result looks like a combination of Newcastle and Amsterdam, its cheerful mix of amber shops, cafes and bars entertaining young families and stoic elderly couples.

By early evening the crowd was dwindling and I took that as a sign to go to dinner. I had been recommended Restauracja Kos, a family restaurant decorated with a confusing mix of old movie prints and oversized plushies. I ordered way too many: six pierogis in russian dumplings – stuffed with warming potatoes and cottage cheese – and a salad of smoked nuts. The food plus a lemon tart and gin cocktail came to a very reasonable £18.

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